While waiting for our in-room breakfast to be delivered this morning, I was browsing the police blotter section of the local paper, ‘The Journal of the San Juans’. One item noted that, “…a deputy responded to a suspicious call after a resident reported seeing a rustling in the bushes near their property. Upon investigation, the primary suspect turned out to be a deer.” As we would learn later today, you’ve got to keep an eye on these island critters - they can involve us humans in unexpected ways.
As we walked to our car today to begin our trip around the island, Karen stopped to say good morning to Porter, the 20-month old Airedale belonging to our B&B hosts, Glenn and Susie.
The first stop today was the Cattle Point Lighthouse, located on a peninsula at the southeast end of San Juan Island. The temperature was in the 40’s and the wind was blowing. It was cold. The area reminded me a little bit of the Marin Headlands, with its windswept terrain and stunted trees.
Next stop was the Pelindaba Lavendar Farm. It is located within an inland valley on the island, where it is protected against the worst of the rain and wind in the area. The owners have managed to get several species of lavender (a plant that prefers a Mediterranean climate) to thrive. The farm distills essential oils, makes food seasonings, and all kinds of potions from the plants. Karen got some stuff that purports to have many beneficial uses.
Turning north up the western coast, we got to the Lime Kiln Lighthouse. From here, you can look across the Haro Strait and see Canada.
Continuing north, and then back eastward into valley farmland area, we came upon the Krystal Acres Alpaca Farm. The place looked deserted, but there was an ‘Open’ sign in driveway. There is a gift shop that features all kinds of alpaca wool clothing at a rather hefty price.
We decided to buy a $5 bag of alpaca food. The woman at the shop said that if we rattled the bag as we walked out to the pasture, we might get the attention of an alpaca. As soon as we reached the nearest fences, we could see alpaca heads turning in our direction when they heard the crinkling of our paper bag of treats.
While Karen was working the crowd, two of the alpacas were jostling for position near the food. Suddenly, one of them turned toward me and spit a big wad of saliva right at me. My face and eyeglasses were sprayed. A distinct barnyard scent permeated my nasal membranes. I wiped myself off and took a few more pictures of Karen handing out the food. Then, we went back to the car.
Karen asked the shopkeeper why an alpaca would spit at a friendly human. It turns out that I was likely an innocent victim caught in a cross-fire during a territorial dispute.
Speaking of territorial disputes, our next stop was English Camp. This is part of the San Juan National Historical Park and is located in the northwest quadrant of the island. Earlier in the day, at Cattle Point Lighthouse, we’d been at the American Camp section of the park.
Back in the middle of the 19th century, Britain and the U.S. each laid claim to the island. As a result, the Brits established a military base in the north (English Camp) and the Yanks set up camp in the south (American Camp). The English Camp was quite deluxe. It featured several buildings, and even had a traditional English garden. By contrast, the American Camp could never get adequate congressional funding and the troops lived in tents. All that remains of it today is an earthenwork redoubt.
In 1859, the two sides nearly got into armed combat when the killing of a pig inflamed long-sizzling tensions regarding rightful ownership of the island. This ‘hamicide’ (so to speak), also known as ‘The Pig War’, ultimately led to a negotiated end to the dispute and the island became U.S. territory.
At the far north end of the island is Roche Harbor. A former seaport that exported barrels of lime mined on the island, it is now a rather posh resort. A couple of old lime kilns serve today as a backdrop to a bocce ball court.
We’d heard about the fresh donuts baked at the Lime Kiln Cafe, so we went in to order a couple. As I put on my mask, I was nearly overcome with the smell of dried alpaca spit. Traces must have remained in my beard. Karen’s verdict on the donuts: meh…
Last stop today was dinner at the San Juan Island Brewery. Karen had their blueberry cider - she liked it.
NEXT: Orcas Island
LOL !
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